“Barbecue is a process of coaxing out secrets; barbecue is a romance. It requires patience and commitment, which over time reveal patterns and rhythms. A brisket will dance for you when it feels like it — and only when it feels like it. Its undulations are a sign that conditions are exactly right. That it’s done. In an open pit, a whole hog’s hiss through a steady drip onto wood embers is its own love language. The meat will let you know when it’s ready, but the message isn’t so easily deciphered by a novice. It takes years to develop the proper vocabulary and recognition of certain physical cues. But once you reach that level, understanding when a piece of meat has yielded itself completely takes nothing more than a touch.”
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